There are several rules and deep art in serious tea making. There are no rules in sharing tea with others.

2010. május 11., kedd

Green memoir from a vermilion noir tea


Probably I am not a black tea fan, or to say better, I am not a great black tea drinker and I am surely not a member of the  new way black tea drinkers society. My favored teas are the true aged black teas, but they are called black in chinese (Hei Cha) and have nothing to do with classic european style indian blacks. Thinking to the red-black empire, I enjoy various chinese blacks, like very much the deep chocolate aroma of the Jiuqu Hong Mei, I wonder about the infinite variegation of yunnan red teas and consider Darjeeling FF teas something double-tongued and double faced, greenish black creature.   In some way we like in this black teas a character what is out of blackness. Recently we, western tea neologists prefer infuse it in a very unusual low temperature ranges to obtain even more mild tastes and aromas. I cannot adjudicate when this tendencies are erroneous or not, maybe we are forwarding to new type of  sense of taste, maybe there will be eternally different gastronomic rules on the two faces of the planet. The tradition is also not monochrome, but teach us certainly otherwise. The new way of the only sweet and only mild taste is an experiment  ignoring and incurious of the cha qi of this teas.  To explain exactly what I want to say and to express all my doubts and scruples I found  the perfect companion in a japanese black tea, from a small-family run farm in a black tea producing area called Makurazaki in Kagoshima prefecture from Kyuushu. Japanese black is not widely prevalent and known, it is a rare speciality submerged in the immense japanese green tea sea, such as botabotacha, goishicha and other very limited, but quite interesting local inventions. On the 40 g bag Te Zu Mi  means hand picked and refers to the early spring only bud-quality of this tea. However in the production the original leaf shape is not conserved due to the intensive rolling process. Heated our traditional sencha vermillion tea pot we put in the tea and the smell which reaces us diffuses in a wide spectrum with profound aromatic breath. We use a very mild purified crab-eye water at  95 Co. Less than 1 minute we wait before we go to fill our small cups and the tea became very dense, accompanied by intensive smell and deep vermilion colour. Laudable astringency, medium cha qi, very intensive fruity umami and contented sweetness. Yes, we feel the chocolate, coffee and other roasted beans aromas as we can fell it in every high end black tea, but the really inexplicable sense of this koucha is some rich green-resembling passion. You don't perceive it, just after finished the last 6-7. infusion. It is not a true, direct detection of taste, but a general sensation.. Even more it is a sort of memorial of green between all of senses in your palate when you feel you must turn to prepare again this tea. And this is the best sign. 
    



                           

                           
Hungarian readers please refer this article here: www.japantea.hu

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